The Sofa in its Rightful Place

For those of you emailing and requesting to see what the sofa actually looked like when we got it in the room - here you go! The room isn't quite complete as I'm waiting on the beautiful Hunter Douglas Luminettes, my draperies and some artwork.

A Couch, A Condo & A Crane Makes for an Exciting Day!

Ask anyone in my profession what skills they find are crucial to being a good interior designer and I promise you that problem-solving and the ability to think on one's feet will be at the top of the list. I wanted to share this recent exercise in problem management with you and can do so because thankfully, it's about my own personal project and NOT one of my clients.

We recently decided that it was time to say goodbye to the Miami Vice decade and update our condo in Florida. So, like every good designer, I set about measuring the space, selecting the furnishings and plotting out my floor plan. The big day arrived and as I went down to the lobby to meet my delivery guys I was mortified to learn that my sofa would NOT fit in the elevator. The dimensions I received were off just a hair - but enough to guarantee it was not going up sixteen floors in that elevator.

"OK," I said to my guys, "If I tip you big are you willing to take it up sixteen flights of stairs in 94 degree heat?" They told me they were game and set off to begin their ascent. Well, as they approached the third floor stairwell the ceiling lost three feet of height and it was evident that my sofa would be damaged if they had to squeeze and scrape it over the railing thirteen times. I had to come up with another option.

It was presented to me that on such occasions the movers can - with assistance from the elevator operating company - put furniture on top of an elevator and ride it up slowly, getting out between floors. Well, that's against the law so we would take no such a risk.

What about creating a pully system over our balcony and bringing it up that way? Condo manager said "Nope - may damage the balcony." Everyone said I would have to send the sofa back - well, since I was the decorator and there was nothing wrong with the sofa I knew that was not an option.

I thought to myself, how do they get shingles up on these high rises? Then it hit me, I needed a crane. So, I asked the condo manager, "Can I get a crane in here?" He said, "Yes, but you need to have a certificate of insurance, workers comp, board approval etc...." Then I knew I needed to find a crane but time was of the essence because we were leaving for Ohio the next day and I have a sofa sitting in the parking lot. .

So, thanks to my trusty I -Phone, I googled, 'Crane Naples, Florida' and two numbers appeared. I called the first, who were quite affordable but could only go up about thirteen floors. So, I called the next company and they did in fact have a crane that could make the sixteen floors and they could do it that day. Once we had all the legal paperwork in hand and the crane was set up we were ready to go.

One small hitch was that due to a balcony overhang one floor above our's that the crane could hit, they would only be able to take the sofa to the fifteenth floor and the movers would then need to take it up one flight of stairs. I asked the movers if they wrapped the sofa in a blanket then shrink-wrapped it super tight could they squeeze it up one flight? They assured me they could so we were in business.

Though this whole drama drug on from 9:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., the actual lifting of the sofa took a mere ten minutes. I'm happy to report that the sofa is now resting comfortably - with the matching loveseat, in our living room where it will stay happily ever after. So, when and if we sell the condo, the sofa will be part of the deal!

I'd like to thank my movers from Warehouse Services and the very skilled crane operators from Allied Crane -- these guys are all true professionals and were just as determined as I was to get that sofa in our condo.

Working on next month's decorating e-newsletter. If you want to receive it, just send me your email address. Of course it's free!

Common Decorating Mistakes

Clients and friends ask me all the time what are the most common decorating mistakes people make, so I've compiled a list. Now some of these are simply my pet peeves, while others are based on sound elements of design like scale and balance. Good news is, most of these cost little to nothing to fix.

• Wimpy table lamps beside beds and sofas. If you are sitting in bed the light should flow from the shade to the top of your shoulder. In the above photo, the lamps are too small in scale to shed light properly and seems out of balance with the very large headboard.



• Lining your rooms walls with furniture. Furniture is best in conversational groupings that float in front of your focal point. Unless you plan on having a dance in the middle of your floor!



• Not enough, or too much light. Every room should have three types of light: overhead, task and accent. If all you have is an overhead light you are in essence, lighting nothing when you light everything. Get some table lamps, a floor lamp, and uplight for a tree, etc.



• Art hung too high... Take a cue from the art galleries where the center of the art is hung at or just above eye level. For above a sofa, art should be hung 4-8 inches above depending on your ceiling height.



• No window treatments or just blinds -- enough said, it's like getting all dressed up and forgetting your earrings -- it looks unfinished.



• Mirrors hung over beds or fireplaces. Mirrors should be placed where they reflect something worth seeing. If there is a pretty chandelier sometimes a mirror hung over a fireplace does work. But as seen in the photo above, the mirrors hung over the bed do not reflect anything pretty and should be replaced with some artwork.



• Improper color transtions from room to room. Color should flow, it doesn't have to be the same but it shouldn't shock one when they walk from one room to another. My exception to this is children's rooms, they love those hot colors and deserve a room that reflects their personality.



• Little knick knacks. Choose fewer accessories that are larger in scale and group together in odd numbers. It looks less like clutter and is easier for you come dusting time.



• White ceilings -- especially if you have beautiful crown molding. If you are color shy, paint your ceiling a lighter version of your wall color. If you are bold, look at the color wheel and choose a complementary color for impact - your moldings will POP!



• Going overboard with the faux painting treatments. As with everything, moderation is key.



• Forgetting the floor. Area rugs are art for your floors and anchor your seating arrangement that is now away from the wall. Just make sure the rug is large enough - at least the length of your sofa. You never want your walls, ceiling and floor to be all the same color = boring.



• Ignoring a room's character or focal points. I can't tell you how many times I've seen someone place a sofa or a television in FRONT of their fireplace, how sad. Same with having a beautiful picture window with no soft window treatments.



• Overstuffed bookshelves. Unless you are loaning out books, your shelves should be 2/3rds full and have things on them other than books to add interest. A few framed photos, some greenery or accessories and some books placed on the horizontal will liven up your shelves.



• Buying matching suites of furniture, whether it be a bedroom or living room. That is so 1960's. Furnishing your space should not look as though it was done in a day. Matchy-matchy lacks originality and does little to reflect your personality.



• Buying without planning. By taking the time to measure and do a floor plan you will save yourself time and often thousands of dollars. I've seen a ton of folks with furniture that is too large for their space and they always say, "It didn't look so big in the store."



• Sloppy slipcovers. There are good slipcover companies out there and you can always have an upholsterer make one just for your furniture. Yes it costs more, but it is still less than replacing the sofa and it won't look like you are trying to hide something.



• Not painting the angled parts of dormer walls. When the angles are the same color as the ceiling and not the walls your eye travels the room going up and down in a choppy manner. When the walls match the angles your eye flows more smoothly and you are not distracted by the angles.

That's my list for now - please let me know of your design pet peeves, I look forward to your comments. If you found these tips helpful, I now have a FREE monthly e-newsletter full of such design tips and inspiration. If you wish to receive my newsletter, simply email me at clora@decorandyou.com and type "newsletter" in the subject line. You should receive your newsletter the first Tuesday of each month.

Buying Upholstered Furniture? Do Your Homework:

Today, more than ever, buying quality furniture is so important. By purchasing a high quality piece of furniture you will enjoy it for many years and be contributing to a greener environment by not adding inferior goods to our landfills.

Determining high quality in upholstery can be difficult because you can’t see what’s inside. Like with most things in life, the old saying, “You get what you pay for,” holds true. Many times I’ve heard people say, “I saw the exact same sofa at XYZ store for less money.” I explain that they did not see the same sofa, just one wrapped in similar looking fabric. And, what’s on the inside is critical to the life of the piece. Think of blue jeans – you can buy a pair for $20 or $200. And, anyone who has had both will tell you there is a huge difference – and they likely still have the $200 pair many years later.

The inner components of upholstered furniture include the frame, support foundation, padding and cushioning materials. The last piece of the puzzle is the outer fabric.

The frame is the basic unit of all upholstery – and it’s where the type of materials used and skilled workmanship will contribute to the price you pay. You want a kiln-dried hardwood frame because they do not warp. A soft wood frame – like pine – will lack strength and likely break down. Also, stay clear of laminate boards or MDF – after all, it is just sawdust mixed with glue. Do not fall for a sales person saying, “This frame is solid wood.” That’s a trick of the trade – paper and toilet paper are also solid wood but you wouldn’t want your sofa made out of it. Some better furniture manufacturers will show you a cutaway of their furniture, if one is not available ask the sales person specifically what type of wood is used for the frame. Also, there should be corner blocks underneath for corner frame reinforcement.

The next layer is the support foundation. This will be fabric webbing, steel springs, sinuous coils or wood slats. The springs are connected with twine, wire or clips. In high quality furniture, you will not be able to feel the metal supports through the cushioning fabric. Eight way hand tied and bench made are two terms associated with excellent quality.

Padding and cushioning materials can include a layer of cotton or polyester batting, springs, down and urethane foam (polyurethane). Urethane is the most common because it is durable, non-allergenic, comes in various densities and resists moths. High density foams with a high percentage of urethane are best. Light weight cushions will “hollow out” in a short period of time and is a sign of inferior goods.

For those seeking a luxurious seat and willing to absorb the higher price tag, feather and down or a combination can be found through higher end manufacturers. A good ratio is 80% feathers to 20% down as all down would be too soft to provide any support. Whatever the cushioning materials used, all should be wrapped in a case of muslin.

Lastly, the outermost layer of decorative fabric needs to be durable. Many materials are used today, from natural to manmade fibers, leather and vinyl. Ask your decorator or salesperson what it’s made out of and how best to care for it. All fabrics are graded and have been tested for durability. With many fabrics, a “double rub” number will have been assigned to it. Anything under 5,000 should not be used for upholstery. (I would not use under 15,000.) There are great velvets, microsuedes and chenilles out there today that have double rubs over 100,000. Keep in mind that a printed design will hide some minor soiling and a tightly woven fabric like polyester will wear better than a loosely woven one like some cottons. To further guard against stains, you can purchase additional fabric protection or a sealant plan. If you have little ones, it’s worth it. They will wear off over time and with cleanings so you will need to keep up with them for optimal results.

Decorating Your Home - When Doing It Yourself Doesn't Make "Cents"

Perhaps you’ve just moved into a new home or you’ve recently downsized. Or maybe the 80’s have called and want their furniture back! Whatever the situation is, you realize it is time to “redecorate.” So, where to begin? And, should you do it yourself? To avoid costly mistakes, such as buying furniture that is too large for your home, take some extra time to analyze your space like a professional designer.

The first thing I tell my clients seeking that “magazine” look for their home is, “Do your homework; start clipping magazine photos of rooms, color schemes and furniture styles that you like.” Then, ask yourself some basic questions:

FUNCTION
* Who uses the room?
* Do you have young children, teenagers or pets?
* What is your lifestyle? Are you homebodies? Do you want to entertain?

In a house full of kids and pets, one should look for more durable, pet-friendly fabrics so that everyone can enjoy the room. I particularly love the new outdoor fabrics that have the look and feel of fine indoor fabrics – only they hold up like Teflon in such high traffic areas as the eating area.

FURNITURE ARRANGEMENT
If you are using existing furniture, determine what items to keep by asking yourself:
* What items are needed for the intended function of the room?
* Where is the best placement of each item?
* Is the piece a quality-made item that will stand up to use for years to come?
* Does the entire arrangement work well?

Once, you’ve determined what stays, take precise width and depth measurements of each piece and create a floor plan (there are some great free floor planning sites on line) considering the following items.

SPACE
* Will there be enough room to walk around the furniture? Do we need to consider ADA guidelines for someone using a walker or wheelchair?
* Does the scale of the furniture work well in the room?

I’ve seen people move into a large home yet still try to utilize the under-scaled furniture from their previous, smaller home. No matter how much they like it, it just never looks good in the large space nor does it feel warm or welcoming to their guests.

TRAFFIC PLANNING GUIDELINES
* Establish patterns through furniture arrangement – always keep ease of movement in mind.
* Establish a focal point – whether it’s a TV or fireplace – and arrange furniture groupings around this.
* Furniture arrangement must be convenient for activities, whether it’s watching TV or entertaining; eating a meal or sleeping.

STYLE
* What mood are you trying to convey? What image do you want to project?
* How does the lighting contribute to the style and function of the space?

These are just some basics to keep in mind – for a well-thought out room design tailored to the needs and lifestyle of your family, it may be in your best interest to consider working with a professional decorator. If you found these tips helpful and would like to subscribe to my decorating E-Newsletter, simply email me at clora@decorandyou.com and type "newsletter" in the subject line.

Questions to Ask Before Hiring an Interior Decorator

I have discovered that a cloud of mystery seems to surround the interior design business and often deters people from seeking professional help. So, rather than staying stuck in a space that you're not quite happy with - here's a few insider tips I recommend you ask when searching for an interior designer or decorator.

What types of projects do you specialize in or prefer to work? A good designer will use the elements of design and therefore will be able to create beautiful designs in contemporary, traditional, transitional or ecclectic styles. Many times, geographic region will dictate the prevalent design style in a decorator's portfolio. However, some decorators prefer to only do a certain style for various reasons, so let them tell you what they like to do. What is more important is the chemistry between you and the designer plus the quality of work and experience in the field. A good designer will listen to your needs and translate that into YOUR custom design, not their style.

How many clients do you have right now and do you have time for another project of the scope that we are considering? You may like a designer's work but if they are too busy, they may not have time to devote to your project. If you are willing to wait, then it is less important.

What is a reasonable time-frame for completion for a project such as mine? Expectation setting is critical. Custom design takes a long time - anyone that tells you differently is misrepresenting the industry and is likely just telling you what you want to hear. When working with a designer it is most likely that the products are being made just for you based on your specifications. So, unlike walking into a big store that has 10,000 sofas sitting in a warehouse, you will have to wait 8-16 weeks for custom pieces. However, it is well worth it as the quality is inherently better and you will have a one-of-a kind piece. So, plan ahead - if you want a job done by the holidays, you need to have your custom pieces ordered by the end of July.

How much should I budget for my project? This is a critical question and will depend on the scope of work and your selections. Fabric price is a huge influencer on overall cost of goods. You can cover a sofa or do a window treatment in $30 a yard fabric or $300 a yard fabric. It is your choice and a good designer will tell you what you get for the money. A good rule of thumb for window treatments is 10% of the home's value. A quality custom sofa will range anywhere from $2,0000 on up depending on the fabric you choose. The decorator should walk you through your space, discuss priorities and give you good, better, best price options to meet your budget requirements.

How do you work? Another great question. All designers charge differently. Most charge by the hour and a mark-up from wholesale on the furnishings. I do not charge by the hour when clients purchase products from me and product pricing is all inclusive. Meaning, if I quote you $1000 for your window treatments, that will cover the design, fabric, labor, delivery, hardware and installation of your draperies. I find that it's much easier on me and the client than tracking hours. If someone only wants to "pick my brain", say a color consult or floor plan assistance that is when I do charge by the hour. Typical hourly rates in the midwest are $75 - $200 per hour.

Do you carry professional lilability and Business Owner's Policy insurance? Are you certified in the profession? This is very important. You want a professional designer that carries these insurances for your protection. If they do not carry this insurance, proceed at your own risk.

How large is your portfolio of vendors? This is the available furniture, flooring, fabric, and other trade items that are available for your optimal selection. This will insure that you will have a unique end result and not one just like your neighbor down the street.

Do you come to my home, do I come to your studio and/or do we go shopping elsewhere? If you are strapped for time, you will want a decorator that always comes to you - even if that means evenings and weekends. Most of my clients are busy professionals and their time is valuable. So they appreciate that I will meet with them outside of business hours and that we won't be wasting their valuable free time shopping from store-to-store.

May I speak to a past client or two? Qualified decorators will have loads of happy clients - just ask them for references and testimonials. Also, ask your friends, neighbors, professionals such as Realtors, and other specialists that you trust for recommendations. If you visit someone's home and see work that you admire, ask for a referral.

Will you personally be on site for all deliveries and installations? If anything happens on the job this is important. You want them present and they should want to be on hand to see the fruits of their labor come to life.

What form of payment do you accept and what are the payment terms required to place an order? If you know you want to use your American Express card to earn those bonus points you had better ask rather than assume that the designer accepts it. Some only work with cash or checks. I accept everything but Discover. Also, expect a deposit of 50-75% to place a custom order - some may require the full 100% at time of your order. That is because the designer is paying for your items up front. And, custom goods are of course non-returnable. However, a good designer will stand behind the quality of the items they sell.

I hope this list has provided some guidance as you consider your home decorating projects. If you have additional questions, please feel free to post them. Happy Decorating! Décor & You was voted “Best Interior Design Firm” by Columbus CEO Magazine for 2008-2009. An award winning decorator, Colleen's studio is located in New Albany, Ohio.